The Bulova “Maquina Collection” Special Edition (Ref. 98A320), introduced between 2024 and 2025, is a men’s automatic watch that interprets the language of skeleton watches through a contemporary, sporty, and strongly graphic aesthetic. The model belongs to the accessible segment of mechanical watchmaking and focuses less on functional complexity and more on transforming the movement into a visible component of the design.
Its identity is deliberately far removed from that of classic skeleton watches, which are often built around traditional finishes and more formal aesthetic codes. Here, the approach is modern and openly expressive, intended for those seeking a mechanical timepiece with a strong visual presence and who consider the architecture of the caliber an integral part of the watch experience.
Design
The dial is the true centerpiece of the design. The openworked structure eliminates much of the surface traditionally used as a background, directly revealing bridges, gears, and other elements of the movement. The result is a three-dimensional composition in which the different mechanical layers create genuine depth rather than relying on decorative elements that merely simulate the effect.
Surrounding the central area is a multicolored radial element characterized by shades that visually range between blue, purple, pink, and green. The reflections change according to the incidence of light and create a sharp contrast with the watch’s dark base. This chromatic choice is one of the model’s most distinctive aspects and deliberately shifts the language of the skeleton watch toward a more fashion-oriented and contemporary territory.
The complexity of the background is organized through applied hour markers and dark baton hands with luminous inserts. Two horizontal elements also cross the open section of the dial, carrying the Bulova logo and the “Automatic” inscription, helping to visually divide the underlying mechanics.
The peripheral minute track creates a more regular graphic boundary around the central structure. Its presence helps separate time reading from the mechanical texture, preventing the entire dial from becoming a single visually indistinct surface.
The black-tone metal bracelet uses broad, geometric links that continue the design language of the case. Visual integration is particularly important here: rather than functioning as a simple support, the bracelet completes the industrial character and helps give the watch the appearance of a unified whole.
Case & Construction
The case is made of stainless steel with a black ion-plated treatment and measures 40 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness. The lug-to-lug distance is 47 mm, while the lug width reaches 24 mm. The tonneau-inspired architecture therefore combines a relatively restrained width with a more substantial vertical construction.
The caseband features pronounced geometry, with broad surfaces, angular transitions, and integrated lugs that flow directly into the bracelet. The bezel follows the same approach without taking on the role of a separate functional element, maintaining continuity with the profile of the case.
On the right side is the crown, positioned without prominent external guards and featuring a textured surface designed to improve grip. The dark treatment applied to the metal structure maintains a uniform overall appearance and reinforces the technical character of the construction.
The dial is protected by an anti-reflective dual-curved sapphire crystal. In a watch built around the visibility of its movement, this solution has a practical purpose: the curvature complements the upper volume of the case, while the surface treatment helps reveal the numerous layers beneath the crystal.
The case back is an exhibition type and allows the movement to be viewed from the rear as well. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters, equivalent to 5 ATM: a specification consistent with everyday use, but one that clarifies how the sports-watch definition relates primarily to architecture, materials, and stylistic approach rather than any particular aquatic specialization.
Movement
Inside is the Citizen/Miyota Caliber 8N26 Skeleton, a Japanese automatic movement that forms the mechanical foundation of the project.
The stated power reserve is approximately 40 hours. In practical terms, this represents one of the more traditional aspects of the technical specification: it does not compete with the extended autonomy now available from several contemporary automatic calibers, but it remains adequate for regular use of the watch.
The choice of the 8N26 is particularly consistent with the commercial positioning of the Maquina. This is not a caliber developed to offer elaborate complications or manufacture exclusivity, but rather a Japanese solution used in a product that places a significant part of its value on architecture and the exposure of its mechanics.
It would not be appropriate to attribute frequency, jewel count, hacking seconds, chronometric tolerances, or other characteristics to this specific configuration when they are not included in the available verified data. The assessment of the movement therefore remains limited to the specifications that have actually been confirmed, without automatically extending information relating to similar calibers to this model.
Functions & Complications
The functional configuration is essential: hours, minutes, and seconds are the only indications available, while automatic winding manages the movement’s power supply. There are no complications.
Interaction with the timepiece is consequently focused on setting the time through the crown, without a date, counters, functional scales, or additional displays. Skeletonization is not a complication, but it concretely changes the way the indications are perceived: the hands and hour markers must stand out against a mechanical background that is considerably more intricate than a solid dial.
Performance
On the wrist, the timepiece maintains a strong presence without extending excessively in the longitudinal direction. The tonneau geometry makes the watch head appear more structured than a traditional round case, while the configuration of the lugs limits its extension toward the edges of the wrist.
The profile remains noticeable and gives the construction a substantial feel. Under a close-fitting cuff, the watch does not disappear and retains an evident presence; with casual and sportswear, this characteristic is instead consistent with the model’s overall design language.
The integration of the bracelet creates a continuous transition from the case to the wrist. The broad links complement the structure without introducing the visual interruption typical of a traditional strap and distribute the watch’s presence across a wider surface.
The on-wrist experience therefore favors structural compactness and impact over discretion. It is a choice consistent with a model that is designed to be visible and recognizable, rather than behave like a slim dress watch.
Technical Data
Brand: Bulova Watches;
Model: Bulova “Maquina Collection” Special Edition (Ref. 98A320);
Year: 2024/2025;
Case Material: Stainless Steel (Black Ion-Plated);
Case Diameter: 40 mm;
Case Thickness: 13 mm;
Lug Width: 24 mm;
Lug-to-Lug: 47 mm;
Crystal: Anti-Reflective Dual Curved Sapphire Crystal;
Water Resistance: 50 m / 166 ft (5 ATM);
Power Reserve: ~40 hours;
Movement: Automatic Mechanical Watches – Citizen/Miyota Caliber 8N26 Skeleton (Japanese Movement);
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Automatic Winding;
Complications: None;
Bracelet / Strap: Black-Tone Stainless Steel Bracelet;
Type: Fashion Watches, Skeleton Watches, Special Edition Watches, Sports Watches;
Sex: Men’s Watches;
Nationality: American Watches.
Retail Price (Launch): €599 / $650.
The Maquina Special Edition finds its purpose in offering a personal interpretation of the accessible skeleton watch. It does not attempt to reproduce the codes of haute horlogerie or present a level of mechanical complexity it does not possess; instead, it builds its character around the combination of exposed mechanics, sporty architecture, and a decidedly unusual chromatic element.
Its main strength is therefore its design coherence. Every element contributes to the same contemporary identity and makes the model immediately distinguishable from more conventional automatic offerings. Its limitation stems from that same choice: such a distinctive aesthetic reduces versatility and makes the timepiece less suitable for those seeking restraint, a classical approach, or a single watch that can easily adapt to very different settings.
Its technical positioning should also be interpreted correctly. The appeal does not lie in elaborate functions or exclusive mechanics, but in the way a relatively simple automatic platform is used to create a visually more ambitious product.
Its launch price places it in a segment where value for money depends primarily on the importance assigned to the design and skeleton construction. Enthusiasts primarily interested in caliber specifications have limited reasons to choose it; if, instead, you are looking for visible mechanics accompanied by a very strong aesthetic personality, the overall package becomes considerably more compelling.
The ideal buyer is therefore the enthusiast who wants to see the movement, appreciates watches with a strong contemporary presence, and considers design a fundamental part of the mechanical experience. The verdict is positive precisely within these boundaries: it is an accessible skeleton watch with a genuinely distinctive personality, more convincing when judged for what it deliberately chooses to be than as a universal sports watch.
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