The Chanel J12 “Wanted de Chanel” (Ref. H7418) is an automatic watch introduced in 2022 as part of the Wanted capsule collection. Made primarily from highly resistant black ceramic, it belongs to the luxury segment of Chanel watchmaking and offers a particularly graphic interpretation of the J12, one of the Maison’s core watch collections.
Its defining feature is immediately recognizable: the oversized white CHANEL logo extends across the bezel and black lacquered dial, becoming the dominant element of the design. Beneath this fashion-driven approach, however, lies a substantial watchmaking foundation, with the automatic Calibre 12.1, COSC certification, approximately 70 hours of power reserve, and a construction that is more robust than its fashion-oriented appearance might suggest. Its dimensions also make it a genuinely unisex proposition.
Design
The glossy black ceramic forms the visual foundation of the watch, creating a uniform surface that continues from the case to the integrated bracelet. The polished finish emphasizes the reflections of the ceramic and contrasts sharply with the white graphics, maintaining the black-and-white combination closely associated with Chanel’s aesthetic identity.
The feature that immediately distinguishes this version from a conventional J12 is the use of the CHANEL name. The letters are not confined to the dial: they are enlarged, deconstructed and distributed across the bezel and black lacquered surface, creating a deliberately asymmetrical composition. The logo therefore assumes a structural role within the layout, occupying the space normally reserved for hour markers and other peripheral indications.
The dial does away with hour markers, numerals and the date window. What remains are the three central hands, with luminous material on the hour and minute hands, together with the small functional inscriptions. This choice makes the composition extremely clean in terms of traditional watchmaking elements, while simultaneously making it much more visually assertive from a graphic standpoint. It creates an interesting contrast: the number of elements is reduced, while the visual impact remains high.
The integrated black ceramic bracelet completes the design coherently. The polished links continue the finish of the case without introducing a visually dominant material or color, leaving the white lettering as the principal contrasting element.
Case & Construction
The construction combines highly resistant black ceramic with stainless steel components. The case measures 38 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm thick. The ceramic provides high resistance to surface scratches compared with conventional steel and retains its finish well, although care is still required against severe impacts, which can be more problematic for this material.
The front is protected by sapphire crystal. The steel screw-down crown incorporates a black ceramic cabochon, while the caseback features a sapphire opening that allows the wearer to observe the automatic movement and its distinctive circular oscillating weight.
The stated water resistance reaches 200 meters / 20 ATM, a significant figure for a luxury model with such a strong design focus. The integrated ceramic bracelet uses a stainless steel triple-folding clasp.
Two dimensions require greater caution: approximately 19 mm for the lug width and approximately 46.6 mm for the lug-to-lug are measurements reported by secondary sources and are not among the official Chanel specifications normally published for this model. They are therefore more accurately considered approximate values.
Movement
Inside is the Chanel Calibre 12.1, a Swiss automatic mechanical movement manufactured by Kenissi, a manufacture in which Chanel holds a stake. This is an important element in understanding the positioning of the modern J12: behind the Maison’s strong fashion identity is a calibre developed specifically for this generation of the 38 mm J12.
The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, equivalent to 4 Hz, and offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve. This provides sufficient autonomy for a fully wound watch to remain unworn for much of a weekend without necessarily requiring resetting and restarting when it is worn again.
Another technically significant feature is COSC certification. The calibre is therefore subjected to the tests required to obtain chronometer certification, providing an independent benchmark for its timekeeping performance.
Also visible through the sapphire caseback is the circular tungsten oscillating weight, one of the most recognizable features of Calibre 12.1. Its shape gives the movement a distinctive visual identity without compromising its primary function of powering the automatic winding system. Overall, the 4 Hz frequency, extended autonomy and chronometer certification provide a technical foundation consistent with the watch’s premium positioning.
Functions & Complications
The functions are deliberately essential: hours, minutes and central seconds, accompanied by the movement’s automatic winding. There is no date, chronograph, second time zone or other complication.
The absence of a date display also has a practical consequence for the design: no aperture interrupts the large typographic composition of the dial. From a strictly horological perspective, it is therefore a three-hand automatic watch without additional complications, a choice consistent with a version in which its distinctive character lies primarily in its aesthetic execution.
Performance
The 38 mm diameter suggests balanced wrist presence and suitability for a wide range of wrist sizes, reinforcing the model’s unisex character. The integrated bracelet also distributes the presence of the watch more continuously around the wrist than a traditional strap separated from the case.
Legibility represents the most evident compromise in the design. The hands contrast with the black background, and the hour and minute hands feature luminous material, but the complete absence of hour markers removes the reference points normally used to identify the exact time quickly. Approximate reading remains immediate, while precise reading requires greater attention.
The 12.6 mm thickness should also be considered when evaluating the watch with formal clothing: it is not particularly thick for an automatic sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but neither does it have the slim profile of a traditional dress watch. Finally, the ceramic is particularly interesting for everyday use because of its resistance to surface scratches, a useful characteristic on a watch dominated by large glossy black surfaces.
Technical Data
Brand: Chanel Watches;
Model: Chanel J12 “Wanted de Chanel” (Ref. H7418);
Year: 2022;
Case Material: Black Highly Resistant Ceramic and Stainless Steel (with fixed steel bezel and black sapphire ring);
Case Diameter: 38 mm;
Case Thickness: ~12.6 mm;
Lug Width: ~19 mm;
Lug-to-Lug: ~46.6 mm;
Crystal: Sapphire;
Water Resistance: 200 m / 656 ft (20 ATM);
Power Reserve: ~70 hours;
Movement: Automatic Mechanical Watches – Chanel Calibre 12.1 (Swiss Movement);
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Central Seconds, Automatic Winding;
Complications: None;
Bracelet / Strap: Black Highly Resistant Ceramic Bracelet with Stainless Steel Triple-Folding Clasp;
Type: Collectible Watches, Fashion Watches, Limited Edition Watches, Luxury Watches, Sports Watches;
Sex: Unisex Watches;
Nationality: French Watches.
Retail Price (Launch): €8,100 / $8,550. (Limited Run – Wanted Capsule Collection 2022).
The J12 Wanted de Chanel is one of the most recognizable interpretations of the 38 mm J12 platform. Its main strength is its ability to combine an immediately recognizable graphic identity with substantial watchmaking credentials: highly resistant ceramic, automatic Calibre 12.1, COSC certification and approximately 70 hours of power reserve. Production limited to the 2022 Wanted capsule also adds an element of collector interest, although Chanel did not disclose a numbered production run for this specific version.
The main compromise concerns legibility. Removing the hour markers allows the logo to dominate the dial, but makes precise time reading less immediate. The strongly branding-driven aesthetic is also inevitably selective: if you prefer understated dials, you will probably find a traditional J12 more balanced.
Overall, it is a particularly suitable proposition if you are looking for a J12 that is mechanically credible yet visually distinct from the standard versions. On the pre-owned market, its value should be assessed by considering the condition of the ceramic, completeness of the set, provenance and price compared with other J12 models equipped with Calibre 12.1, rather than automatically assigning a collector premium solely because of the “limited edition” designation.
You can explore current auctions and listings for this watch on Catawiki using the search link below.
