The Enicar Ocean Pearl “Star Jewels” (Ref. 140-54-04) is a Swiss hand-wound watch dating to approximately 1970–1975, characterized by a compact gold-plated cushion case and a gold-amber sunburst dial. The documented example combines a 17-jewel Enicar mechanical movement with central seconds and a date display at 3 o’clock.
Its interest lies in the way traditional mechanical construction meets the more assertive styling of early-1970s Swiss watchmaking. The unusual dial color, geometric applied indexes and integrated-looking case profile make this Ocean Pearl particularly representative of its period, while the less familiar reference adds interest for collectors exploring Enicar beyond the better-known Sherpa family.
Design
The case measures approximately 35 mm across and follows a broad cushion or C-shaped profile rather than a conventional round architecture with clearly projecting lugs. Its gold-plated surfaces extend around the dial and visually enlarge the watch, allowing a relatively modest diameter to produce a stronger presence. The short case extremities also reinforce the continuous, integrated appearance typical of many designs from the period.
A narrow fixed bezel leaves most of the available surface to the dial. Here, the gold-amber color is combined with a pronounced sunburst finish that can shift visually between orange, bronze and yellow-gold according to the angle of the light. This changing surface is the defining visual characteristic of the watch and gives the relatively simple time-and-date layout considerably more depth.
Large applied hour markers use angular, faceted profiles with contrasting pale central sections. Their substantial proportions complement the broad case rather than disappearing against the intense dial finish. The hour and minute hands follow a similarly geometric treatment, while the thin orange central seconds hand introduces a sharper color accent. A framed date aperture occupies the conventional 3 o’clock position.
The upper section carries Enicar’s applied Saturn emblem and signature, with “STAR JEWELS” positioned above 6 o’clock. These raised elements contribute additional depth without making the display excessively complex. An acrylic crystal covers the dial, consistent with the watch’s period of manufacture.
The photographed example is fitted with a brown leather strap, approximately 18 mm wide at the case. Its warm tone complements the gold plating and dial while keeping attention focused on the unusual case-and-dial combination.
Case & Construction
The case combines a gold-plated upper structure with a screw-down stainless-steel caseback. Its documented diameter is 34.7 mm excluding the crown, conventionally rounded to 35 mm. Based on the available specifications and proportions, thickness is approximately 9.5 mm, lug width approximately 18 mm and lug-to-lug around 40–41 mm; these three measurements should be regarded as estimates rather than manufacturer-published dimensions.
The crown at 3 o’clock handles manual winding and time setting, while the acrylic crystal reflects the construction commonly used in watches of this period. The caseback carries the characteristic embossed Ocean Pearl marine imagery together with Enicar branding, providing a distinctive identifying feature on the reverse.
The watch was originally conceived as water resistant, with a nominal rating of approximately 30 m / 98 ft (3 ATM). That historical figure should not be interpreted as evidence of present-day protection. After more than 50 years, seals around the caseback, crystal and crown may have hardened or deteriorated, while wear or minor case deformation can further compromise sealing. Water exposure should therefore be avoided unless the individual watch has been professionally serviced and successfully pressure-tested.
Movement
The seller identifies the movement inside this model as a Swiss Enicar Caliber 140, a manually wound mechanical movement with 17 jewels and Incabloc shock protection. Energy is supplied by turning the crown, tensioning the mainspring before the stored energy is progressively released through the gear train and escapement.
The precise movement designation requires some qualification. Technical records for Enicar document the AR 1140 / AR 1141 family as hand-wound calibers with 17 jewels, Incabloc shock protection and a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, or 2.5 Hz. The family measures approximately 26.4 mm across the movement and 3.95 mm thick, with a documented theoretical power reserve of about 47 hours.
Of particular relevance here, AR 1140 is the basic version while AR 1141 adds the date function. Since this Ocean Pearl has a date display at 3 o’clock, AR 1141 is technically consistent with its functional configuration and other vintage Ocean Pearl examples are documented with that caliber.
However, this relationship should not be used to identify the movement of Ref. 140-54-04 definitively without inspecting its actual caliber markings. For this particular watch, the safely documented description remains an Enicar hand-wound movement listed by the seller as Caliber 140, with 17 jewels and Incabloc; the AR 1141 identification is the likely family correspondence rather than a confirmed movement engraving.
Functions & Complications
Functionally, the watch is deliberately straightforward. Central hands indicate hours and minutes, while the orange central seconds hand provides continuous running seconds. Manual winding is performed through the crown and forms part of the normal operating routine of the mechanical movement.
Its only additional complication is the date display at 3 o’clock. The calendar is incorporated through a compact framed aperture that replaces the corresponding hour marker without significantly disrupting the dial’s symmetry.
There is no chronograph, GMT indication, power-reserve display or specialized timing scale. The model is therefore best understood as a conventional time-and-date watch whose interest comes primarily from its period design and mechanical construction rather than complication count.
Performance
Based on its approximately 35 mm diameter and estimated 40–41 mm lug-to-lug measurement, this Ocean Pearl should wear compactly by modern standards. The broad cushion architecture gives it greater apparent size than the diameter alone suggests, while the estimated 9.5 mm thickness should allow the case to remain relatively low on the wrist.
The large applied indexes provide clearly defined hour references, although the gold-tone hands and similarly warm dial naturally offer less contrast than a purpose-built tool watch. The orange central seconds hand is considerably easier to distinguish against the sunburst surface. Any original luminous material should be treated as a vintage component whose current effectiveness cannot be inferred from its original specification.
A theoretical power reserve of approximately 47 hours for the associated AR 1140/1141 movement family would allow roughly two days between full winds, although actual autonomy and timekeeping accuracy depend heavily on the condition and servicing history of an individual vintage movement.
For the same reason, the original 30 m water-resistance specification should not determine present-day use. The combination of aged seals, gold plating and acrylic crystal makes careful daily or occasional wear more appropriate than exposure to water or demanding physical activity.
Technical Data
Brand: Enicar Watches;
Model: Enicar Ocean Pearl “Star Jewels” (Ref. 140-54-04);
Year: ~1970–1975;
Case Material: Gold-Plated Metal Case with Stainless-Steel Caseback;
Case Diameter: ~35 mm;
Case Thickness: ~9.5 mm;
Lug Width: ~18 mm;
Lug-to-Lug: ~40–41 mm;
Crystal: Acrylic Crystal;
Water Resistance: 30 m / 98 ft (3 ATM) when originally rated; due to its 50+ year age, deteriorated seals and case wear may have compromised water resistance;
Power Reserve: ~47 hours;
Movement: Manual Mechanical Watches – Enicar Caliber 140 (Swiss Movement);
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Central Seconds, Manual Winding;
Complications: Date Display;
Dial: Gold-Amber / Orange Sunburst Dial with Applied Faceted Hour Markers;
Bracelet / Strap: Brown Leather Strap;
Type: Casual Watches, Classic Watches, Dress Watches, Vintage Watches;
Sex: Men’s Watches;
Nationality: Swiss Watches.
Retail Price (Launch): ~€45–70 / ~$50–80 (estimated 1970–1975 price).
The Ocean Pearl “Star Jewels” illustrates an important change in Swiss watch design during the late 1960s and 1970s, when brighter dial colors, cushion cases and stronger geometric forms increasingly appeared alongside more conservative round watches. This example captures that period particularly well through its orange-gold sunburst finish, faceted markers and broad gold-plated case.
Its collector appeal does not depend on mechanical complexity. Instead, Ref. 140-54-04 combines a recognizable period aesthetic with Enicar’s mechanical watchmaking and a practical date display in compact proportions. For enthusiasts interested in vintage Enicar beyond the established Sherpa references, it offers a distinctive and technically straightforward expression of the brand’s 1970s production.
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