The Bulova Rubaiyat Four Seasons “Summer” 150th Anniversary Edition (Ref. 97R104) is a women’s watch introduced in 2025 to celebrate the American Maison’s 150th anniversary. Part of the Rubaiyat collection, it belongs to the women’s dress watch segment with a pronounced jewelry-inspired character, interpreting the theme of summer through an immediately recognizable color combination.
Its identity does not stem from mechanical complexity, but from the integration of watchmaking and decoration: turquoise tones, gold-tone surfaces, and natural gemstones create a deliberately striking yet balanced composition. It is aimed primarily at those looking for an elegant timepiece with compact proportions and a stronger personality than traditional women’s models in neutral colors.
Design
The dial is the element that visually defines the model. Its turquoise background features darker irregular veining reminiscent of a mineral surface, creating a sense of visual depth that a conventional monochromatic dial would lack. The effect is particularly consistent with the collection’s interpretation of summer, as the color immediately evokes water, light, and Mediterranean hues without relying on figurative elements.
Around the dial, the brilliance of the blue gemstones creates a luminous band distinct from the central surface. The contrast is not merely chromatic: the inner texture absorbs and diffuses light differently from the stones, while the gold-tone surfaces introduce a warmer component. The interaction between these three elements prevents the watch from appearing simply “blue and gold” and gives it a more layered composition.
The applied hour markers are reduced to the essentials, allowing the background plenty of visual space. The slender, tapered gold-tone hands maintain sufficient presence without becoming dominant, while the Bulova logo with its tuning-fork symbol discreetly occupies the upper portion. The clean layout allows the texture and reflections to remain the dominant visual elements.
The crown also contributes to the distinctive frontal symmetry. Its upper placement leaves the sides completely unobstructed and interrupts the circular continuity only along the vertical axis, a solution that immediately distinguishes the Rubaiyat family from a conventional round case.
The turquoise calf leather strap with its grain texture completes the composition without introducing a neutral transitional tone. It is a deliberately bold choice: rather than toning down the color of the dial, it extends it along the wrist. The result is a highly coherent aesthetic identity, although inevitably more restrictive when it comes to matching outfits than black, brown, or beige leather.
Case & Construction
The case is made of stainless steel with a yellow gold-tone PVD finish and measures 30 mm in diameter, 8.5 mm in thickness, and approximately 35.5 mm from lug to lug, with a 14 mm strap attachment. The construction uses integrated attachments at the top and bottom, avoiding the configuration of traditional projecting lugs.
The perimeter is set with 42 natural blue topaz stones, while the crown positioned at 12 o’clock incorporates a blue synthetic spinel cabochon. The distinction between the two materials is important: the stones surrounding the dial are natural topaz, while the crown insert is synthetic.
The crystal is a double-curved sapphire with an anti-reflective treatment. For a watch in which the dial and gemstones account for much of the visual interest, this solution protects the surface from one of the most noticeable forms of everyday wear while providing a clearer view of the dial.
Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, equivalent to 3 ATM. The level of protection is therefore consistent with the timepiece’s elegant purpose, but represents a tangible limitation in terms of versatility: this is not a construction designed for aquatic activities.
Movement
The engine is the Bulova Caliber GL24, a Japanese-made quartz movement. Power is supplied by an SR621SW battery, equivalent to the 364, with an estimated lifespan of approximately 36 months.
From a technical standpoint, the caliber prioritizes simplicity and low maintenance requirements. It is a functional choice consistent with the nature of the watch, where the movement is not used as a prestige element or as the main technical selling point.
Among the information available to us, there are no verified manufacturer specifications concerning stated accuracy or movement thickness. It would therefore be incorrect to attribute undocumented performance figures to the GL24. The assessment must remain limited to what is known: it is an essential solution, focused on reliability in use and compatible with a design that concentrates much of its development on the external construction.
Functions & Complications
Functions are limited to displaying hours and minutes through two central hands. There are no seconds, date, or other complications.
Interaction is consequently immediate, and the dial remains completely free of additional indications, scales, or windows that would interfere with its composition.
Performance
On the wrist, the case sits compactly and maintains a typically elegant presence. Its compact geometry concentrates the body of the watch over the central area of the wrist, while the integrated attachments provide a smooth transition to the strap without creating particularly pronounced rigid extensions.
The profile slides easily under a cuff and makes the timepiece suitable for formal attire as well. Its visual presence, however, is more pronounced than its physical footprint: the decorated surface catches the light around the perimeter, making the front of the watch more noticeable than that of a dress watch without jewelry-inspired elements.
The calf leather naturally follows the curvature of the wrist, while the concealed deployant clasp with dual pushers keeps the overall appearance neat when the watch is worn. This solution also avoids repeatedly bending the leather at the same point, as typically occurs with a pin buckle, providing a practical advantage for preserving the strap over time.
Daytime legibility benefits from the chromatic separation between the hands and the background. In the absence of luminescent material, however, reading the time in darkness is severely limited. This is a compromise directly related to the elegant nature of the design, but it remains relevant for anyone wishing to use the same watch throughout the entire day.
Technical Data
Brand: Bulova Watches;
Model: Bulova Rubaiyat Four Seasons “Summer” 150th Anniversary Edition (Ref. 97R104);
Year: 2025;
Case Material: Yellow Gold-Tone Stainless Steel (Yellow Gold-Tone PVD Finish, 42 Natural Blue Topaz Stones, Blue Synthetic Spinel Cabochon Crown at 12 o’clock);
Case Diameter: 30 mm;
Case Thickness: 8.5 mm;
Lug Width: 14 mm;
Lug-to-Lug: ~35.5 mm;
Crystal: Double-Curved Anti-Reflective Sapphire Crystal;
Water Resistance: 30 m / 100 ft (3 ATM);
Battery Life: ~36 months / 3 years (SR621SW / 364);
Movement: Quartz Watches – Bulova Caliber GL24 (Japanese Movement);
Functions: Hours, Minutes;
Complications: None;
Bracelet / Strap: Blue Leather Strap (Turquoise Blue Calf Leather with Grain Texture and Yellow Gold-Tone PVD Stainless Steel Concealed Deployant Clasp with Dual Pushers);
Type: Anniversary Edition Watches, Classic Watches, Dress Watches, Fashion Watches;
Sex: Women’s Watches;
Nationality: American Watches.
Retail Price (Launch): €690 / $765.
The Four Seasons “Summer” succeeds above all because it makes no attempt to disguise its nature. It is a compact jewelry watch in which the watchmaking component serves a precise aesthetic concept rather than attempting to compete with models built around caliber sophistication.
Its main strength is the coherence of the design. Color, architecture, and decoration speak the same language and give the timepiece an immediately recognizable personality. It does not look like a conventional model to which precious elements were subsequently added: the jewelry-inspired approach has been part of its concept from the outset.
Its limitations stem from that same specialization. The level of water protection restricts the range of possible uses, nighttime legibility is not one of its strengths, and the horological content of the caliber remains essential. The strong chromatic character also sacrifices some of the versatility that normally makes a dress watch easy to match.
The launch price should therefore be judged by considering the product as a whole. If you are primarily looking for mechanical refinement, you will find little in the movement itself to justify that price; if you place greater importance on decorative execution, recognizability, and commemorative character, you will instead find a proposition that is more consistent with its positioning.
The verdict is positive within very specific boundaries: this model makes sense if you want an elegant, highly decorative, and immediately distinctive women’s watch, but not if you are looking for versatility or mechanical substance. Its main quality does not lie in doing many things, but in having a clear identity and carrying it through without stylistic compromises.
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