Bulova Rubaiyat Four Seasons Primavera | 150th Anniversary Edition | Dress Watch

Bulova Rubaiyat Primavera watch with pink dial, rose gold case and gemstone-set bezel

The Bulova Rubaiyat Four Seasons “Spring” 150th Anniversary Edition (Ref. 97R103) is a women’s watch introduced in 2025 as part of the celebrations for Bulova’s 150th anniversary. It belongs to the Rubaiyat collection and interprets the theme of spring through a particularly distinctive combination of natural pink stone, sapphires, rose gold-tone steel, and matching leather.

This is not a model that pursues mechanical complexity or an instrument-oriented aesthetic. Its identity is that of a dress watch with a strong jewelry-inspired character, in which the natural rhodonite dial and the setting composed of 42 pink sapphires form the central elements.

The connection with the brand’s history is nevertheless significant. Bulova traces the Rubaiyat name back to 1917, when it was used for a series of watches conceived specifically for women. The Four Seasons collection revisits this heritage through four interpretations inspired by the seasons, with the Spring version adopting a palette dominated by different shades of pink.

Design

The dial in natural pink rhodonite defines much of the watch’s character. It does not have the uniform appearance of a lacquered or printed surface: veining, tonal variations, and color distribution depend on the structure of the stone. Two examples can therefore display subtle differences, a characteristic that makes the material more interesting than a conventional decorative pink dial.

Surrounding the dial is a setting composed of 42 pink sapphires, with a declared total weight of 0.25 carats. The stones form a continuous luminous ring and create a visual transition between the central rhodonite and the warm tones of the case.

The faceted applied hour markers, characterized by a floral shape, are used sparingly, leaving much of the available space to the natural stone. The two central hands keep the dial layout equally simple, while Bulova’s tuning-fork symbol Bulova is positioned in the upper section without becoming the dominant element of the composition.

The decision to limit the display to hours and minutes also contributes to the visual cleanliness. There are no date windows, counters, or seconds hand interrupting the natural veining of the rhodonite.

Particularly distinctive is the crown positioned at 12 o’clock. Viewed from the front, this solution avoids the asymmetry created by a conventional side-mounted crown and recalls one of the identifying elements of the Rubaiyat family. The synthetic spinel cabochon set into the crown continues the jewelry-inspired language already introduced by the sapphires.

Completing the watch is a strap in pink alligator leather. In this case, the strap does not function merely as a neutral component but deliberately continues the color palette established by the dial and gemstones.

Case & Construction

The case is made from stainless steel with a rose gold-tone finish. Its proportions are decidedly compact: Bulova specifies 30.5 mm in the international documentation for the reference, while Bulova Italy lists 30 mm. This represents a minor discrepancy between regional specifications; for this article, the international measurement of 30.5 mm is retained.

The thickness is 8.5 mm. Combined with the relatively compact case construction, this measurement maintains a slim profile consistent with the watch’s formal character.

The stated lug width is 6 mm. The approximately 37 mm lug-to-lug measurement, however, comes from retailer specifications rather than Bulova’s official technical documentation; it should therefore be regarded as a figure reported by external sources rather than an official manufacturer measurement.

The dial is protected by a double-curved sapphire crystal. This is a relevant construction detail, particularly for a model in which the dial surface and surrounding gemstones play such an important role, as sapphire provides greater scratch resistance than the mineral crystal initially attributed to the model in some specifications.

The crown at 12 o’clock incorporates a cabochon-cut synthetic spinel, while the closed caseback protects the quartz movement.

Bulova Italy assigns the watch a water resistance rating of 3 ATM, equivalent to approximately 30 meters. US documentation, however, uses the more cautious description “Splash Resistant”. The construction is therefore intended to withstand incidental contact with water, not for use in aquatic activities.

Movement

Inside is the Bulova GL24, a battery-powered Japanese quartz caliber configured for a two-hand display.

Bulova specifies an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month for this movement. It is a technically simple but appropriate solution for the nature of the model: the caliber takes up little space, requires no manual winding, and allows the dial, gemstones, and case proportions to define the watch’s identity.

The GL24 exclusively drives the central hour and minute hands. There are no running seconds, calendar, or other indications.

Some technical sources report an indicative battery life of approximately 60 months. Since this figure does not appear in Bulova’s documentation specifically relating to this model, it is more accurate to regard it as an estimate associated with the caliber rather than an officially guaranteed battery life for the watch.

Functions & Complications

The functions are deliberately reduced to the essentials: central indication of hours and minutes.

There are no complications. Distinctive elements such as the upper crown, natural-stone dial, and sapphires are construction and design features and should not be classified as horological complications.

The simplicity of the display also provides a tangible aesthetic advantage: it leaves the rhodonite surface almost completely unobstructed, without placing secondary information over its natural veining.

Performance

With a diameter of 30.5 mm and a slim profile of approximately 8.5 mm, the model offers a restrained presence on the wrist. The sapphire setting, however, increases the visual perception of the case: the stones catch the light around the entire perimeter, making the watch appear more prominent than its diameter alone might suggest.

The 6 mm lug width contributes to the watch’s compact proportions, while the lug-to-lug measurement of 37 mm suggests relatively limited longitudinal wrist coverage. It is a configuration that adapts well even to smaller wrists and allows the watch to slide easily beneath a shirt cuff.

The alligator leather strap offers greater flexibility than a metal bracelet and uses a custom deployant clasp with dual pushers, a solution that avoids repeatedly bending the leather as happens with a traditional pin buckle.

Legibility, on the other hand, should be considered in the proper context. This is not a model designed around maximum visibility in every condition: the pink dial, metallic details, and jewelry-inspired execution prioritize aesthetics. The absence of luminous material also limits time reading in the dark.


Technical Data

Brand: Bulova Watches;
Model: Bulova Rubaiyat Four Seasons “Primavera” 150th Anniversary Edition (Ref. 97R103);
Year: 2025;

Case Material: Rose Gold-Tone Stainless Steel, Pink Sapphire-Set Bezel;
Case Diameter: 30.5 mm;
Case Thickness: ~8.5 mm;
Lug Width: 6 mm;
Lug-to-Lug: 37 mm;

Crystal: Double Domed Sapphire Crystal;
Water Resistance: 30 m / 100 ft (3 ATM);
Battery Life: ~60 months;

Movement: Quartz Watches – Bulova Quartz Caliber GL24 (Japanese Movement);
Functions: Hours, Minutes;
Complications: None;

Bracelet / Strap: Pink Alligator Leather Strap with Custom Fold-Over Clasp and Dual Pushers;

Type: Anniversary Edition Watches, Classic Watches, Dress Watches, Fashion Watches;
Sex: Women’s Watches;
Nationality: American Watches.

Retail Price (Launch): €1,095 / $1,295.


The Rubaiyat Four Seasons Spring finds its main point of interest in the meeting between the history of the collection and a contemporary construction strongly oriented toward jewelry design. The reference to the Rubaiyat line of 1917 takes on additional significance in the year of Bulova’s 150th anniversary, but the model does not rely solely on the commemorative occasion.

The natural rhodonite dial is probably its most interesting feature. The inherent variations of the stone avoid the uniform appearance of a conventional colored dial, while the 42 pink sapphires add brilliance without occupying the central surface. The crown at 12 o’clock also helps distinguish it immediately from a more conventional women’s dress watch.

Its strengths therefore include genuinely distinctive decorative materials, sapphire crystal, compact proportions, quartz-movement accuracy, and a construction consistent with the Rubaiyat aesthetic tradition.

The compromises stem from the same approach. The GL24 is functional but technically very simple, there are no complications, and legibility in low-light conditions is not a priority. Water resistance also remains modest and requires use consistent with the nature of a dress watch.

Finally, the price should be interpreted by considering that a significant part of the value lies not in the movement, but in the natural rhodonite, the presence of 42 pink sapphires, the aesthetic execution, and the significance of the edition created for the 150th anniversary.

Overall, it is therefore more convincing if you are looking for a jewelry-inspired Bulova watch with a clearly defined historical identity and unusual materials rather than one that prioritizes caliber complexity or sports-watch performance.


You can explore current auctions and listings for this watch on Catawiki using the search link below.

Bulova Rubaiyat Four Seasons "Primavera" on Catawiki

ChronoSphera - Homepage

Leave a Reply